Double rainbow over Tyrol

Crossing the Alps Garmisch-Partenkirchen – Sterzing, entirely without public transport

An Alpine crossing for my 60th birthday: seven days from Garmisch-Partenkirchen to Sterzing — every cable-car and bus stretch covered on foot.

Today Rain 21° Next days
Fri Showers 15° 18 mm
Sat Showers 20° 0.9 mm
Sun Showers 21° 10°

Weather data from MET Norway

At a glance

Total distance
210.0 km
Total ascent
8230 hm
Difficulty
hard
Total time
47.6 h
Stages
17
630 m 208.5 km · ▲ 7623 hm · ▼ 7529 hm 2216 m

Whole tour as GPX

  1. Evening loop around Partenkirchen
  2. Day 1 — pre-stage up to the Eckbauer
  3. Day 1 — Welcome to Garmisch-Partenkirchen
  4. Day 1 — post-stage from the Geisterklamm to Leutasch
  5. Day 2 — pre-stage from the Hubertushof to Leutasch Weidach
  6. Day 2 — Olympic Seefeld and Innsbruck, capital of the Alps
  7. Day 2 — post-stage from Seefeld to Birgitz
  8. Day 3 — pre-stage up to the Mutterer Alm top station
  9. Day 3 — crossing into the Stubai Valley (standard route)
  10. Day 4 — pre-stage up to the Serles top station
  11. Day 4 — past the Maria Waldrast pilgrimage site (non-standard route)
  12. Day 5 — into the idyllic Obernberg Valley (standard route)
  13. Day 6 — smugglers' paths into South Tyrol
  14. Day 7 — pre-stage from Gossensaß to the Ladurns top station
  15. Day 7 — from the Pflersch Valley to Sterzing
  16. Day 7 — post-stage from the Rosskopf top station to Sterzing
  17. Epilogue — through the Partnachklamm to the Reintalanger hut and back

Across the Alps, on foot

For my 60th birthday I gave myself an Alpine crossing. Luggage transfer was organised by the tour operator ASI Reisen, so we could walk with relatively light packs and stay in comfortable accommodation.

Since my dear walking companion was a good walker too, we skipped buses, trains and cable cars and covered the entire stretch from Garmisch-Partenkirchen to Sterzing on foot over seven days. The pre- and post-stages are marked as such — those are the lift and public-transport sections we walked instead.

Apart from the short evening loop, we also did a longer walk to the Reintalanger hut after we finished. The Kaiserschmarrn in the title image, which wasn't even on the hut menu, was just one of several wonderful moments.

The stages

Evening loop around Partenkirchen

Hay barn beneath the Wetterstein massif in evening light
8.8 km↑ 150 hm↓ 98 hm⏱ 1:41 h
Download GPX

A beautiful evening atmosphere — the visit to the Puoro restaurant is highly recommended.

Day 1 — pre-stage up to the Eckbauer

Hiking path with a view of the Wetterstein massif
6.2 km↑ 510 hm↓ 0 hm⏱ 1:28 h
Download GPX

Day 1 — Welcome to Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Alpine meadow with hay shed in front of the Wetterstein massif
16.0 km↑ 490 hm↓ 690 hm⏱ 3:18 h
Download GPX

Day 1 — post-stage from the Geisterklamm to Leutasch

Double rainbow over Tyrol
6.5 km↑ 80 hm↓ 17 hm⏱ 1:08 h
Download GPX

Austria welcomed us with rain — which of course didn't dampen our spirits. After the forest track at the start there's a narrow path roughly one kilometre long that demands sure-footing — not recommended in slippery conditions.

Day 2 — pre-stage from the Hubertushof to Leutasch Weidach

Mountain flank in morning mist
4.2 km↑ 60 hm↓ 0 hm⏱ 46 min
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Day 2 — Olympic Seefeld and Innsbruck, capital of the Alps

Bog pond with a mountain mirrored in the surface
10.1 km↑ 330 hm↓ 246 hm⏱ 2:06 h
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Day 2 — post-stage from Seefeld to Birgitz

Trail through a pine forest with a view into the gorge
21.2 km↑ 440 hm↓ 750 hm⏱ 4:32 h
Download GPX

Day 3 — pre-stage up to the Mutterer Alm top station

Alpine meadow in front of the massif under clouds
7.3 km↑ 740 hm↓ 0 hm⏱ 1:49 h
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Day 3 — crossing into the Stubai Valley (standard route)

View of Fulpmes and the Stubai Alps — the crossing
11.0 km↑ 510 hm↓ 1180 hm⏱ 3:11 h
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Day 4 — pre-stage up to the Serles top station

Stubai Alps massif seen from the trail
6.6 km↑ 680 hm↓ 36 hm⏱ 1:52 h
Download GPX

Day 4 — past the Maria Waldrast pilgrimage site (non-standard route)

Trail with Austrian waymarking and alpine huts
14.5 km↑ 270 hm↓ 790 hm⏱ 3:13 h
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Day 5 — into the idyllic Obernberg Valley (standard route)

Mountain stream with snow-covered massif and an alp house
23.1 km↑ 1120 hm↓ 810 hm⏱ 5:19 h
Download GPX

My 60th birthday. Glorious walking weather in beautiful country.

Day 6 — smugglers' paths into South Tyrol

Obernberger See with cows on the shore
15.8 km↑ 790 hm↓ 1080 hm⏱ 3:46 h
Download GPX

Day 7 — pre-stage from Gossensaß to the Ladurns top station

The Ladurns lift — which we preferred to walk past on foot
9.7 km↑ 690 hm↓ 59 hm⏱ 2:25 h
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Day 7 — from the Pflersch Valley to Sterzing

The Pflerscher Tribulaun peaks above the valley floor
8.3 km↑ 420 hm↓ 290 hm⏱ 1:59 h
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Day 7 — post-stage from the Rosskopf top station to Sterzing

Bearded mountain spirit carved into a tree stump
5.9 km↑ 32 hm↓ 910 hm⏱ 1:26 h
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Epilogue — through the Partnachklamm to the Reintalanger hut and back

Turquoise stream below the Wetterstein massif
34.7 km↑ 960 hm↓ 848 hm⏱ 7:33 h
Download GPX

We'd been training well in the run-up — the last tube of muscle balm is empty.

Recommendations from this report

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